Giulio Celandroni Orchidee

Historical notes

The knowledge of orchids has developed differently in the East and West, mainly due to the culture of the peoples, their religion, history, and the diverse species present in their territories.

While in the Western world, during the 19th century, there was a period of frantic research (for which the term Orchidelirium was coined) aimed at discovering and acquiring new and unknown species, in the East, orchid cultivation already had a long tradition.

Probably favored by linguistic and cultural barriers, geographical isolation, and insufficient information flow, knowledge of the Eastern world, particularly Japan, was, and in some ways still is, shrouded in an aura of reverent mystery.

Orchid culture was introduced to Japan long before the 19th century, and the Neofinetia falcata variety (now Vanda falcata), called Fuuran (Fūran, 風蘭) – a scientific term literally meaning "wind orchid" and primarily referring to all botanical and wild Neofinetia – was known and cultivated by the Japanese people for over a hundred years, according to the principles of classical horticulture (Koten engei) developed in the Land of the Rising Sun.

It is said that this particular type of orchid, easily found today, was considered a sacred plant in Japan, and common people were not allowed to own it. It was the exclusive prerogative of individuals belonging to higher social classes, such as the warrior class, comprising shōgun, daimyō, and samurai, at the top of the social pyramid.
One might wonder why a warrior caste found affinity with this type of plant and why they dedicated themselves to its care. An unconfirmed theory suggests the answer lies in the shape of the flower, whose appearance seems to resemble that of the kabuto, the samurai's war helmet. So important was the successful cultivation of this orchid that its cultivation and potting took on symbolic value, signifying, if well executed, the courage and proper training of warriors.

During the Edo period (1603-1868), under the command of Shogun Tokugawa Ienari (1773-1841), the passion for this miniature orchid reached its peak. The general dedicated much attention to the care of these small plants, and his passion was so strong that it is said he covered his collection, consisting of about two hundred specimens, with thin gold or silver nets to protect it. Those fortunate enough to admire them had to cover their mouths with a small piece of paper, called kaishi (懐紙), to avoid breathing on the precious green jewels, in the same way one admired the blade of a katana.

It was during this period that the term Fuukiran (Fūkiran, 富貴蘭) began to enter the current terminology referring to this type of orchid; roughly, the term Fuukiran can be translated as "rich and noble orchid" and, even today, is reserved for all those selected and registered varieties of Neofinetia at the Japan Fūkiran Society (日本富貴蘭会 Nihon Fūkiran Kai). This adjective generally refers to a naturally mutated selection of Fuuran, without human intervention.

The Meiji Restoration (1868) aimed at a radical change in Japan's social and political structure, leading to a progressive process of industrialization and modernization modeled after Western countries. The orchid collecting sector was also influenced by this culture, and new, showier and more colorful types began to be appreciated by enthusiasts. Fuukiran at that time no longer constituted the focus of orchid collecting in Japan; however, connoisseurs of the genus continued to be interested in and admire them.

Subsequently, from 1926 until the advent of World War II, the popularity of Neofinetia grew again. It was a period when many associations dedicated to them were founded, but this revived interest in the genus suffered a further setback due to the very high costs of the plants and the spread of the War.

Only in relatively recent times, more precisely since 1973, has there been a large and organized movement to bring attention back to this type of orchid.

Today, in Japan, the Nihon Fūkiran Kai is the association responsible for protecting and enhancing Vanda falcata and their history, boasting over 700 members from around the world.

Also in Italy, in recent years, knowledge and interest in Neofinetia have spread further. What was once an elite and exclusive phenomenon has now become a more massive and widespread international phenomenon.

Plant: main characteristics

For the Japanese people, the beauty of Neofinetia is to be found in all varieties that differ from the original and most well-known form. This appreciation for atypical forms extends to all parts of the plant, not just the flower, such as the stem (Jiku 軸), leaves (Ha 葉), and roots (Ne 根).

Leaf characteristics are considered very important and can be grouped into two main categories: shape and variegation.

The leaves of the most classic Neofinetia form are thin, long, and slightly downward-curving, but the foliage of other varieties can vary in size, shape, texture, and color.

The conformation of the leaves can be arched downwards or upwards, straight without any curvature, irregular, and disordered; they can also be long or thin, or "needle-like" (Hariba 針葉) or short and more or less wide "bean-leaf" (Mameba 豆葉).

Like the shape of the leaves, variegation is one of the characteristic features of Fuukiran and a decisive element for their designation as such. From the most common to the most sought-after type, these variations in leaf patterns are not due to viral infections and significantly increase the plant's value, including its economic value.
Whether it appears yellow and is regularly distributed along the margins of the leaf or transversely across the leaf with a white or yellow color, so much so that it can be mistaken for sunburn due to too much light intensity, variegation is a characteristic that makes these orchids pleasant to admire even when not in bloom.
The roots are also a source of great interest. In fact, the color of the root tips (Nesaki 根先) is a very characteristic trait as many Fuukiran, similar to each other in the shape and color of their flowers, leaves, and stem, can be distinguished from others precisely by the color of the active termination of their roots.

The flowers are mostly white, very fragrant, and characterized by a long spur. However, there are also (botanical) varieties with colored flowers, green or pink/magenta.

Cultivation

The Neofinetia genus is characterized by monopodial growth (vertical axis growth) with a tendency to produce new lateral growths, causing the plant to clump with age.
The epiphytic plant grows on deciduous trees, thus enjoying strong light in the winter months and spending the summer months, when flowering occurs, in a situation of filtered light.

Light

Neofinetia can be grown indoors, preferably exposed to the south or east. Although they tolerate very intense light, it is preferable to maintain the intensity at an intermediate level. The amount of light varies depending on the season and, in some cases, must be calibrated according to the variety grown to enhance its peculiar characteristics. In general, for the most common varieties: 15000-20000 lux in spring/summer, 32000-36000 lux in autumn/winter. If grown with the aid of artificial light, place them at least fifty cm away from the light source.

It is advisable to constantly observe the plant's reaction to light and, in the case of variegation changes, calibrate the intensity accordingly to preserve or enhance the variety's characteristics.

Temperature

In nature, this plant grows in different areas of Japan, some of which are characterized by a drastic drop in temperatures in winter, which is why we can grow many of the varieties outdoors, protecting them from rain during the winter months. However, it is not advisable to expose Neofinetia to such low temperatures; rather, find them indoor shelter in colder areas. For successful cultivation, in winter, do not let the minimum temperature drop below 5°C, while during the summer season, it is best not to expose the plant to more than 30°C (they can tolerate much higher summer maximums, but these would not be optimal for the plants).

Water

If possible, use rainwater or reverse osmosis water. Allow the plant to dry out between waterings. Adjust water supply according to the season: during the vegetative growth phase, water abundantly and regularly, reducing watering during the winter, when temperatures will be lower. Pay particular attention to this last point: as mentioned before, Neofinetia can tolerate relatively low temperatures, but the plant must be dry in this case, as cold combined with humidity quickly causes root rot. Since the plant grows epiphytically in its natural state, it is essential to ensure good air movement to the roots.

Humidity

Ideal humidity should be between 40% and 70%. However, they can tolerate lower levels. If growing plants indoors in a situation of excessively low ambient humidity, increase it with the aid of a humidifier.

Fertilization

A balanced fertilizer (NPK 20-20-20+Micro) will be suitable throughout the year. It will be important to focus fertilization during the plant's vegetative growth period, i.e., in spring/summer, while it will not be necessary to administer it during autumn/winter.

Pot and substrate

The best time for repotting is during spring, but it can also be done during the vegetative recovery after summer heat dormancy (August). Various substrates are suitable for its cultivation; the important thing is that they allow good aeration of the roots while maintaining good humidity. They can be grown using sphagnum moss, or in a mix of bark (1/3), pumice (1/3), and charcoal (1/3), all of medium size; if humidity is high, they also grow well bare-rooted in baskets, or mounted on rafts. To cultivate it in the traditional Japanese way, by placing the plant at the apex of a sphagnum moss mound, good quality long-fiber New Zealand sphagnum moss should be obtained, and clay pots with a large hole at the base should be used, the purpose of which will always be to allow good air movement to the roots. When using this type of substrate, keep in mind that as soon as the sphagnum moss shows signs of deterioration, it will be necessary to replace it (at least once a year).

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